Objects in Focus: Uniforms of the Manchester Regiment collection

February 10, 2023

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Curator Alex Leese explores the changing style of uniforms in the Manchester Regiment collection:

For most of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries British infantry soldiers wore red, earning them the famous nickname ‘redcoats’. Although the colour stayed the same, uniform design went through many changes. Soldiers fighting in the American War of Independence during the 1770s looked very different to those fighting in the far corners of the British Empire over a century later. Coats became shorter and evolved into tunics; knee-length breeches were replaced by trousers; and tricorn hats were replaced by shakos, and finally home service or ‘pith’ helmets.

Why red? There are several theories about why the British Army wore red, from the idea it helped hide blood stains, to it being a cheap colour to produce. Whatever the reason, a single bright colour stood out on the battlefield against the smoke and confusion of war, helping soldiers stay in formation and generals see how the battle was progressing.    

The oldest example of a red uniform in the Manchester Regiment collection was worn by an officer of the 63rd Regiment of Foot sometime between 1796 and 1811. The 63rd later became the 1st Battalion of the Manchester Regiment in 1881.

Officer's coatee c.1800

Individual regiments distinguished themselves with different coloured ‘facings’ on the collars, cuffs and lapels. The 63rd wore dark green facings with silver braided lace. On formal occasions the facings were buttoned back like this, showing off the contrasting colour and lace pattern. In the field they were buttoned over with just a hint of colour folded back at the top.

Regimental button details

Other subtle details help to express the regiment’s identity. There are two rows of ten buttons down the front of the coat, grouped in pairs. Each one of these buttons bears the Regimental number ‘63’. There are also two fleur-de-lys motifs on the coat’s tail. This regimental emblem dates from the 1750s following the 63rd’s role in capturing the French island of Guadeloupe.  

Bell topped shako, 1830s

A type of headwear called a shako was worn for most of the nineteenth century. Just as top hats replaced tricorns for civilian gentlemen by around 1800, shakos replaced tricorns for most infantry soldiers around the same time. Early styles were straight ‘stovepipe’ designs but by the 1830s the ‘bell-topped’ shako was worn. This example was worn by an officer of the 96th Regiment, which later became the 2nd Battalion of the Manchester Regiment.

Home Service helmet, 1880s

Various styles of shako were worn until they were replaced by the Home Service helmet in 1878. It was based on similar ‘pith’ helmets that had been worn in tropical regions. It had a large spike on the top, possibly inspired by Prussian army helmets. When not in use the chinstrap wrapped around the front of the helmet and fastened at one end to the back of the spike.

Khaki began to be worn in foreign climates throughout the second half of the nineteenth century, but red uniforms continued for service in Britain. By the 1890s soldiers wore single breasted thigh-length tunics. Most English and Welsh regiments now had white facings, Scottish yellow, Irish green and ‘Royal’ regiments blue. This was an unpopular regulation as it removed an important aspect of regimental identity.  

Volunteer Battalion tunic, 1890s

This tunic was worn by Sergeant Simpson of ‘D’ Company, 4th Volunteer Battalion, Manchester Regiment during the 1890s and early 1900s. The stars on the lower right sleeve are efficiency badges, each awarded for five years service. He was also a skilled marksman, as indicated by the badges on the left sleeve. These were awarded for shooting in rifle competitions between 1894 and 1909.

In 1902 the British Army introduced khaki service dress in Britain, and the red tunics and home service helmets were reserved for parade and other formal occasions. Red tunics stopped being issued completely when the First World War broke out in 1914. Khaki was perfect camouflage for trench warfare and it became part of the iconic look of the British ‘Tommy’. Khaki continued to be worn during and after the Second World War with the ‘battledress’ uniform. This design featured short jackets, or blouses, that buttoned onto high-waisted trousers.

Officer's tunic, First World War
Battledress blouse, 1950s

You can see all these uniforms along with many other objects from the Manchester Regiment collection in the exhibition 'Soldiers' Stories' at Portland Basin Museum which runs to 2 July 2023.